The Old … Changing face of the countryside
A ride of about 200 km from West London and back or 100 km circular from Twyford station (Elizabeth Line).
Focus on buildings named “The Old..” - changing countryside
Setting out to ride from West London to Great Milton outside Oxford and back via Wallingford, a familiar route, I set my focus on houses and cottages with names beginning “The Old…” These provide evidence, if further evidence is needed, of the vast changes in the countryside from the 1800s and early 1900s. Gone are many village schools, vicarages and other buildings linked to thriving working communities.
The industrial revolution, with its roots in innovations of the 1700s, began in earnest in the 1830s and 1840s. Later, the First World War (the Great War to end all wars) saw huge casualties. Those who survived returned with fresh eyes: they would no longer work all their lives for the landed gentry in the same village and the same fields. The combined effect of these events was to change the countryside dramatically. Cottages, schools, chapels and farm buildings have become sought after dwellings for the present day affluent.
The Old School House
Leaving Eton by Keates Lane, I soon reached the village of Dorney where on the right I spotted “The Old School House”. This took me back to my first teaching post in Oxfordshire where some pupils worked in classrooms that were part of a building that also housed the headteacher back in Victorian days.
The Old School House, Dorney
The original inhabitants would almost certainly have had poor salaries but they had a very desirable house!
A former rural building
I rode on through Taplow, past Cliveden and Cookham to climb to Quarry Wood for the hairpin descent into Marlow. Another climb took me to the villages of Fingest and Turville for the tree-lined ascent of Holloway Lane to Christmas Common. I stopped before the climb began in earnest to take a photo of “The Old Mill Shed”. It may have been a humble working building with basic living accommodation but, like so many rural buildings, it is now a substantial home for much more affluent inhabitants.
Click each image to enlarge.
It’s quite a tough climb, at least for a short distance, until the road begins to level out as it reaches Christmas Common. Descending Hill Road into Watlington, I enjoyed one of the best views I have had this year: the sky was blue with some white clouds. I passed the Spire and Spoke pub/ cycling cafe at the foot of the hill and followed the one way system to turn north along Couching Street.
"Need some cash?”
Just before the old town hall I stopped to take a photo of “The Old Bank House”.
The Old Bank House, Watlington
We read of communities left with no banking facilities. Watlington has a cash machine at the Coop but the nearest banks are in Henley and Thame.
Riding out of Watlington I soon passed Castle Gardens, a new development of housing for the over 55s, another feature of the changing countryside. From here my route took me through Pyrton (where I stopped to eat some of my sandwiches at picnic tables behind the Village Hall) and eventually to Chalgrove.
Where’s the Church?
In the High Street I spotted “The Old Vicarage”, a very substantial house. The nineteenth century vicar may have a meagre income but he certainly had a very desirable house! This is a Grade II listed building dating from the mid 18th century. You can read more about it on British Listed Buildings. St Mary’s Church is set well back from the road, by Chalgrove Green.
The Old Vicarage, Chalgrove
From Chalgrove I rode north through Little Haseley towards Great Haseley. Although my focus was on buildings, I had to stop to take photos of the poppies on Thame Road between the Haseleys.
Click to open “light box”.
In Great Haseley I spotted The Old Bakery with the Baker’s Cottage adjoining on the left. On a recent holiday in the Welsh countryside I was left wondering where people could buy fresh food, vegetables and bread; living in a city has its downsides but good food including artisan bread is easy to come by.
A Village with Competing Flags
I rode on through Great Milton before turning south and south west to cross the A4130 Wallingford to Didcot road into Brightwell cum Salome. I’ve often stopped at a bench opposite the lane leading to St Agatha’s Church and only recently learned that at the end of the lane lies the Grade II listed Brightwell Manor, recently purchased by one Boris Johnson. I was amused to see the EU flag flying at the entry to the lane. Perhaps Brightwell Manor could be renamed “The Old Etonian” or “The Old Brexiteer”. On the day that I rode through, EU flags outnumbered the GB flag four to one.
Lane to Brightwell Manor - “The Old Brexiteer”
“The Old Orchard” - a modern house
On through Wallingford, with a bit of a wait at the traffic lights in the centre and again at the bridge, before turning left through Preston Crowmarsh to Benson. It was in Preston Crowmarsh that I spotted “The Old Orchard” but as it was a modern house, it did not count for this blog.
Spot “The Old Bakehouse”
If you ride through Benson, do try to spot “The Old Bakehouse”. I continued on to Ewelme where the Village Store and tea room had closed; I stopped for a quick break, taking advantage of their outside tables.
A Chance Encounter - a Welcome Chat
Climb #9 of my route took me along Day’s Lane to Ipsden for the final climb of Garsons Lane, part of NCN5. This is double digits steep with a fairly poor surface, but only for about 500 m. After reaching the top I stopped for a chat with two cyclists in their fifties, friends since uni. We talked routes and lanes and I mentioned my blog which I think (from the activity log) they looked at later.
And so to home
From Garsons Lane I rode through Stoke Row to one of my favourite descents: Busgrove Lane. From there it was an easy ride through Playhatch to cross the A4, stopping to buy a bottle of water at the Charvil Coop/ Texaco station. From there, back to West London.
The Route - with photos
Route map for Southall Great Milton Return on plotaroute.com
